Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
